The pictures show construction of a E-ZPipe EZ-1210. Other E-ZPipe buildings similar.
Be careful of any sharp edges remaining from the manufacturing process! Always use heavy gloves and suitable eye and ear protection when installing and handling your building materials and where ever appropriate! Safety first!
Building Disclaimer:
All E-ZPipe buildings supplied by VehicleServ are sold without any express or implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. Any and all uses of these buildings are solely at the buyer’s discretion and judgment. VehicleServ makes no claim as to suitability for any purpose.
Even though VehicleServ has had engineering load testing done and provides approximate load ratings for each size building, this data is not to be construed as a claim or warranty as to suitability for any weather, climatic conditions, including but not limited to snow and/or wind loads by VehicleServ or any of its representatives.
VehicleServ has no control over the actual construction methods or capabilities of the end user and, therefore, makes no claim as to the actual final strength of the buildings. VehicleServ supplies a mechanical drawing of the building that is suitable in most venues for purposes of obtaining building permits.
E-ZPipe buildings are not intended for human or animal habitation or shelter. They are intended only as inexpensive storage covers for inanimate items such as vehicles or other goods that are not subject to normal weather damage.
These buildings are sold as is, with the buyer assuming all responsibilities for personal safety both during and after construction, the final construction quality and use of the buildings.
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Load Table (in pounds per square foot down force PSF):
Building Width Normal (5' Arch Centers) Snow Country (2.5' Arch Centers)
10' 28 N.A.
12' 24 N.A.
14' 20 40
16' 16 32
18' 12 24
20' 8 16
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How to read your building number: The first two numerical digits represent the width of your building followed by the length. So the EZ-1210 building in this construction manual would be a 12' wide building that is 10' long. If your building number has an "SC" on the end it is a snow country building set on 2 1/2' centers.
Install your base plates or risers: There are three methods for installing risers depending on the surface you will build on: 1. Risers bolted onto existing concrete (EZ-Rize base plates), 2. Risers extending through newly poured concrete, and 3. Risers on the EZ-Rize bushing system for buildings directly on dirt.
Arch risers are set on 5' centers for normal buildings and 2 1/2' centers for snow country models.
Method 1 for risers bolted onto existing concrete pad: lay out the EZ-Rize base plates at the outer dimension of your building. For an EZ-1210 the outside to outside measurement of the risers would be exactly 12 feet. Make sure your building is square by measuring diagonally (corner to corner). The difference in the two measurements should not exceed .5 (1/2) inches. Set out each pair of riser plates so that the out to out distance between the risers (not the plates) is the width of your building. Once you have all sets of riser base plates measured, parallel and square and marked, install the anchors. In order to use the concrete anchors provided you will need to drill four holes for each riser plate to secure the riser to the concrete. A good quality hammer drill and proper size masonry bit will make this part of the operation the easiest.
Method 2 for risers extending through newly poured concrete: Drive a "boss" stake into the ground. This corner will be what you measure all of the other riser stakes from. Be sure to measure diagonally (corner to corner) between each new set of risers and your boss set so that you get a square building. When you are laying out your building it helps to place a small wooden stake (less than 1 1/2" in diameter) exactly where you measure each riser should go. Measure approximately where a riser should go and dig your concrete footing hole around this mark. Then measure exactly and drive your wooden stake into the ground in the hole. Once you have all your riser stakes set inside their holes, simply set your riser over the top of the stake making sure that 12 inches will remain above the finished concrete level (or, for a 3' riser extension kit, 48 inches above the finished concrete top surface). When pouring concrete check the risers for plumb in two directions several times before you can't move them any longer. Allow concrete to cure until sufficiently set before installing any arches.
Risers for this type of building are 2 feet (or 5 feet) in length and are shipped inside the bottoms of the legs secured with one drive screw. You will need to remove your risers from the legs to set them in concrete. The concrete footing will extend 12 inches into the ground leaving a 12 inch (or 48 inch) riser exposed.
Method 3 for risers on the EZ-Rize bushing system for buildings directly on dirt: Drive a "boss" small wooden stake into the ground. This corner of the low end of the building will be what you measure all of the other riser stakes from. Be sure to measure diagonally (corner to corner) between each new set of risers and your boss set so that you get a square building. Mark where each metal stake will be driven into the ground. When you are laying out your building it helps to place a small wooden stake exactly where you measure each riser should go. Then, using the drive block provided (a 4x4 with no center hole), carefully pound your metal support stakes into the ground (making sure to drive them straight) until only the square bushing retainer is left above ground. Do NOT pound directly on the metal stake - almost certain damage will result. Place your treated wood bushings (the ones with a hole through the center) in each stake bushing retainer.
Risers for this type of building are 2 feet (or 5 feet) in length and are
shipped inside the bottoms of the legs secured with one drive screw. You will
need to remove your risers from the legs to place them in the holes in each of
the bushings. This will leave approximately 18 inches (or 54 inches) of riser
exposed. Tighten the two bolts on the bushing retainer.
Install your slope screws:
Determine which end is to be the low end of the building. In general, this is the end opposite to the end through which you drive the vehicle. Using a water or laser level, determine which of the two base plate corners (or risers) at the low end is the highest. This is the boss corner. Next, using your level again, mark a level plane on this riser about 6 inches from ground level. Continue marking each riser at this same height using your level. Be sure your level doesn't move during this operation or your level marks will not be accurate. These marks are your starting point for each leg.
Go back to your boss riser and install a slope screw in the riser. Do the
same for the opposite riser. Now move to the next set of risers and install a
slope screw above your mark by the amount of your slope times 5 (the
number of feet on center). We recommend 1/4" per foot drop to ensure good water
runoff. This means, for risers set on 5 foot centers, the slope screws for the
second pair of risers will be installed 1 1/4 inches above the level mark. The
next set of slope screws will be installed 2 1/2 inches above the level mark and
so on for each pair of risers.
Assemble the arches:
Assemble each arch as shown. For an EZ-1210 there are three arches, each with three major pieces and two couplers. Lay two of the legs on some level ground with a top piece between them. The top piece has the couplers preinstalled. Slide each leg completely onto the exposed coupler and secure with two drive screws in the same method as the top piece.
Repeat for the rest of the arches.
Install the arches:
With at least two people (one for each leg of the arch) carefully set each leg of the arch on its riser until it is bottomed out against the slope screw.
Secure each leg to each riser using two drive screws. Repeat until you have installed all of your arches onto the risers.
Install ridge panel(s):
Using appropriate and safe ladders and/or scaffolding carefully set a piece of roofing material centered on the peak of the several arches it will cover. Start at the low side of the building if you have multiple roofing pieces required for 1 run. For example, we recommend using 11 foot sheets of roofing material (R panels or similar) which cover 3 arches with a six inch overhang on both ends. An EZ-1230 would have three of such sheets along the top run.
Make sure the end arch is plumb and secure the ridge sheet to the arch using drive screws with rubber washers attached. It’s important to make sure the center of each arch peak corresponds to the center of the sheet. Start with the peak screw and then press down the edges for the next two. The screws should be placed in the valleys as shown. Each sheet will take three per arch. A chalk line can aid in where the arch is underneath the roof piece. Repeat the process for the middle arch.
[If your building is only one sheet-length long, disregard this next step]
Continue the process until you reach the last arch for a particular sheet. Do
not place any screws in this arch yet (unless it is the last arch in the
building). You will need to put the next sheet ON TOP so that it overlaps so
that water will run off the building and not into it. Once you have your second
sheet positioned, place a screw in the peak through BOTH sheets and into the
plumb arch. Finish placing all of the cap sheets for the length of the building.
Again, it is important to remember to always start a course of roofing sheets at
the low end of the building and finish at the high end. If you have any question
about any part of the process please call our assembly help line at
(505)644-8719.
Once you have the top sheet(s) in place your building will start becoming more solid. Pick a side and place your next sheet (remembering to start at the low end of the building) with the high side edge underneath the interlocking mechanism for the type of roofing sheets you are using.
If you have multiple sheets in your run (a 30’ long building will have three 11’ long sheets in a run) finish the run utilizing the same technique as the top sheets (overlapping six inches, etc.) Again, using a chalk line will help in determining where to place your roofing screws. You can go back later and add more screws to the interlocking peaks for an even stronger roof.
Continue installing your sheets on each side until you have reached your desired type of building (shade or fully enclosed). You may need to rip sheets length-wise if you want your building to be completely enclosed.
Congratulations! You’ve just built a sturdy steel building which will give
you many years of trouble free protection. There are many ways of finishing the
ends, including leaving them open, adding doors and windows, and so forth. We
sell an optional non-drive end kit if you want to close off one end. Ask your
VehicleServ representative for details.
If you have any questions during your construction project please call our
assembly help line at (505)644-8719.